I Love Delivery 69 | 5.10d |
Forever | 5.12a |
Nightrise | 5.10d |
Pukurin | 5.10c |
Sheet Time | 5.11a |
Autumn Breeze | 5.10d |
Aki no Otozure - Autumn Visit | 5.10a |
Putera | 5.9 |
Chicolita | 5.10d* |
Lunch | 5.10d* |
morning.S | 5.12b* |
Climbing in the Rain | 5.11c |
Hoshizuna - Starsand | 5.11a* | 10m |
A diagonal line across the lower right slab. Good moves but poor rock. | ||
Start on the slope below left of a bottomless corner. Step onto the slab and go up to the start of the corner. Pull right onto the slab and follow the bolts across the slab (at the third bolt, you can go up then right, or right then up) to the arete. Lower off. |
Sophia | 5.10c* | 8m |
Interesting off-balance moves up the grotty short corner. | ||
Start as for Hoshizuna, but head straight up the corner to a lower-off on the left. |
Akamanma | 5.12a** | 8m |
The steep slab left of the corner. Chipped but interesting. | ||
Start in the centre of the slab and make neat, technical moves till it possible to reach a downward-pointing spike. A steep pull leads to the lower-off of Sophia. Wonderfully overgraded. |
WAKAI - Young | 5.10c | 8m |
The short slab just right of the arete. | ||
Start on the terrace left of the arete. Belay advised. Step onto the slab and follow the bolts to a lower-off. |
Francine no Bai - In Francine's Case | 5.10d* | 10m |
The steep line up the centre of the face to the right. | ||
Start on the terrace after pulling round from WAKAI. Follow the obvious line to the last bolt, then head right to the lower-off on Suzume no Teppou. |
Suzume no Teppou - Short-awn Foxtail | 5.11b* | 10m |
The steep, stepped line right again. | ||
Climb direct to the lower-off. Strenuous. |
Bridget | 5.8 | 8m |
The short slab just left of the debris. | ||
Pull onto the undercut slab using a boulder. Continue on big holds to a lower-off. |
Maud | 5.9 | 9m |
The heavily gardened slab left again. | ||
Pull onto the undercut slab using crumbly jugs. Follow a crumbly flake to crumbly big holds and a lower-off. Crumbly. |
Marilyn | 5.9 | 8m |
The short inset slab 10m left again. | ||
Climb the slab past a break to a lower-off. |
Matsumushisou - Pincushion Flower | 5.11a | 7m |
Serious barrel-scraping up the steep choss left again. 7m might be generous. | ||
Climb the leaning slim wall with three jugs and two bolts to a lower-off. |
Tokisou - Ibis Orchid | 5.10c | 12m |
Nope, they still haven't reached the bottom. | ||
The grotty corner just left of Matsumushisou is seriously unrewarding. I only climbed it so that you don't have to. |
Sagisou - Fringed Orchid | 5.11c | 8m |
The longer arete to the left. Slightly more solid, but... | ||
Climb the slab to the arete. One steep move leads to jugs and a lower-off. Apparently, you're not allowed to step onto the ledge on the left. Possibly because it will fall down if you do. |
Ikkyuu Soujishi e no Michi - How to be a Grade One Route Cleaner | 5.10a* | 15m |
Makes you wonder. The left edge of the upper tier. | ||
Step off the left edge of the terrace (onto the rock!) Follow a crumbling groove left of the bolts till it is possible to step right onto the slab and head diagonally right to a lower-off. |
Reppuu - Storm Winds | 5.12c* | 13m |
The next line in. | ||
Follow the bolts to the same lower-off - very technical and devious. |
Hototogisu - Lesser Cuckoo | 5.12b* | 13m |
The next line in. | ||
Climb direct to the same lower-off. Difficult and sustained after the third bolt. |
Miyako Wasure - Japanese Aster | 5.12a** | 17m |
Another direct line to the right. | ||
Climb direct to a lower-off. Reachy and sustained after the second bolt. The first ascent description said something about not using an obvious hold on the right. What's all that about? |
Love or Nothin' | 5.10a** | 18m |
Another direct line right again. The most climbed route hereabouts. | ||
Climb direct between twin not-quite-cracks to a lower-off. Steep and quite satisfying. |
Uguisu Kagura - Lonicera Ramosissima | 5.12a* | 16m |
Another direct line right again, also up a face between vague twin cracks. | ||
Climb direct between the vague cracks to a lower-off. According to the first ascent description, you're not allowed to touch either crack. |
Pit Touch | 5.10c* | 13m |
The next line to the right. | ||
Start below and left of a flake/overlap. Climb up to the overlap on good holds. Pull over and cross some choss to a thin face (crux). Continue up and left to a lower-off. At this grade, I think you're not supposed to use the crack on the left. |
Hiyodori Jougo - Some Grotty Little Flower | 5.11a* | 14m |
Solanum lyratum, it says here. The next line to the right. | ||
Start a couple of metres left of the arete. Climb direct to the right edge of the overlap of Pit Touch. Pull right to the arete and finish up Audrey. Crux at the bottom. |
Audrey | 5.10b* | 14m |
The right arete of the main face. | ||
Make a tricky pull into a groove in the arete. Continue easily over blocky ground, then pull left onto a short crunchy slab. A scary move up this leads to a lower-off. |
Ingrid | 5.10c* | 13m |
The protruding undercut rib to the right. | ||
Climb the narrow rib to a ledge. Use a good crack to pull up the bulging face above to a lower-off. |
Marlene | 5.10b | 13m |
The parallel line to the right. A dangerous route. | ||
Start in a recess. Pull up to easy ground then pull over a bulge using a flake on the left and/or tottering crack on the right to a lower-off. Take great care not to knock anything down. |
Mamako no Shirinugui - Polygonum Senticosum | 5.9 | 7m |
The grotty short slab. Another poor route. | ||
Climb the slab direct then rightwards to a blue chain below a dead tree stump. Lower off. Undergraded at 5.8 in the Japanese topo. |
Grace | 5.10c | 14m |
A poor route up the face left of the grotty corner in the arete. | ||
Start at a yellow chain below an attractive crack. Step left round the arete onto grot and move up and left to a bulge guarding a clean slab. Pass the bulge on its left, make a thin pull up the face then swing right and mantel to the lower-off of Let Me See. It says here "If you stick to the line of the bolts, it's 11b." |
Let Me See | 5.11a*** | 14m |
The slab and obvious crack. A very good route. | ||
Start at the yellow chain and climb direct with a stiff move to gain the obvious crack. The crack proves to be harder than it looks. Continue to a lower-off. Worth an extra star if the approach is ever sorted out. |
Tori no Endou - Bush Vetch | 5.12a** | 18m |
Another good route! | ||
Climb the slabby face direct. Very sustained till the third clip. |
Suzume no Endou - Hairy Tare | 5.11b* | 16m |
Not bad, either. | ||
Start up the wide crack at the back of the bay. Layback the crack to a tricky final face. Continue to a lower-off. |
Sen no Kaze ni Natte - I am a Thousand Winds that Blow | 5.10d* | 18m |
Another decent route, but the bottom slab is already dirty. | ||
Climb diagonally left across the little slab at the back of the bay to a ledge. Finish quickly up the steep arete above. Lower off. |
Union is Strength | 5.10c/d |
Seeing is Believing | 5.11c |
Renjou no Tama - The Jewel in the Crown | 5.12c |
Garyou Tensei - The Finishing Touch | 5.13a |
Okame Hachimoku - Can't See the Forest for the Trees | 5.12a |
Rinki Ouhen - Off the Cuff | 5.10a |
Tettou Tetsubi - To the Letter | 5.11a |
Bijin Hakumei - Beauty and Luck Seldom Mix | 5.10c |
Taki Bouyou - Who Hesitates is Lost | 5.11a |
Toki wa Kane Nari - Time is Money | 5.10c |
Bisei no Shin - Wait in Vain | 5.12a |
Car Park Corner | 5.10b* | 18m |
Climbs over blocky rock to reach and climb the obvious slim corner on the right of the head wall. There are some hollow holds, but the gear is excellent: 3 bolts and medium cams. | ||
Start directly below the corner. Step left onto the face and go up to the start of the corner. Pull awkwardly right into the corner and follow it to a lower-off just below the top. |