Outside The Gate

This area consists of a broken series of broken crags on the right bank of Nishi Matasawa (the stream that you have to cross to get to the Family Rocks) downstream of the campsite. The rock is generally poor quality and vegtated. I recommend a visit for something to do on a rainy day, before you decide to waste any sun on it.

Riverbank Area

From the campsite, follow the path next to the main stream (Shakunage Yuuhodou - Shakunage Hiking Course) downstream and out of the campsite for about 10 minutes. This path hits a big open area opposite a collapsing hillside with concrete buttressing on the right bank. This is bounded on the left by a stepped, steep face jutting out into the stream. There are also paths dropping down from the road outside the campsite.

Some notes:

I Love Delivery 69 5.10d
Forever 5.12a
Nightrise 5.10d
Pukurin 5.10c
Sheet Time 5.11a
Autumn Breeze 5.10d
Aki no Tazunere - Autumn Visit 5.10a
Putera 5.9
Chicolita 5.10d*
Lunch 5.10d*
morning.S 5.12b*
Climbing in the Rain 5.11c

Streamside Area

More desperate new-routing further downstream unearthed (in some cases, literally) more rubbish routes. However, some of the routes above the trees are quite clean and might stay so for more than 10 minutes.

From the campsite, continue downstream from Riverbank Area for five minutes. Cross the stream wherever possible in the region of the only sizable rock on the opposite bank. Be prepared to take your shoes and socks off and paddle across. There is a handy clearing in the woods below the rock. This is in front of the jumble of debris between Akamanma and Bridget.
Alternatively, on your way to the campsite, you can park at the clearing before the last fork in the road. Walk up the road towards the campsite for 20m to where the Shakunage Hiking Course is signposted on the left. Follow the path into the woods for 400m or so till you can see the crag on the opposite bank of the stream.

Routes are described from right to left, down to up, beginning with the section right of the jumble of debris.
The grades are generally very generous. Fill your boots!
There is an excellent pool halfway between Riverbank and Streamside, and 50m downstream from the log bridge an inspiring cypress grows out over a short wall in the right bank and a natural pool.

Bottom Right

Hoshizuna - Starsand 5.11a* 10m
A diagonal line across the lower right slab. Good moves but poor rock.
Start on the slope below left of a bottomless corner. Step onto the slab and go up to the start of the corner. Pull right onto the slab and follow the bolts across the slab (at the third bolt, you can go up then right, or right then up) to the arete. Lower off.

Sophia 5.10c* 8m
Interesting off-balance moves up the grotty short corner.
Start as for Hoshizuna, but head straight up the corner to a lower-off on the left.

Akamanma 5.12a** 8m
The steep slab left of the corner. Chipped but interesting.
Start in the centre of the slab and make neat, technical moves till it possible to reach a downward-pointing spike. A steep pull leads to the lower-off of Sophia. Wonderfully overgraded.

Top Right

The next three routes start on the terrace above the slab. Get there by scrambling up left over the debris on the left, then cutting back right to the base of the rib of WAKAI. For Francine no Bai and Suzume no Teppou, traverse right onto a good ledge using a daft chain.

WAKAI - Young 5.10c 8m
The short slab just right of the arete.
Start on the terrace left of the arete. Belay advised. Step onto the slab and follow the bolts to a lower-off.

Francine no Bai - In Francine's Case 5.10d* 10m
The steep line up the centre of the face to the right.
Start on the terrace after pulling round from WAKAI. Follow the obvious line to the last bolt, then head right to the lower-off on Suzume no Teppou.

Suzume no Teppou - Short-awn Foxtail 5.11b* 10m
The steep, stepped line right again.
Climb direct to the lower-off. Strenuous.

Bottom Left

The next routes climb gardened choss left of the jumble of debris. Described from right to left.

Bridget 5.8 8m
The short slab just left of the debris.
Pull onto the undercut slab using a boulder. Continue on big holds to a lower-off.

Maud 5.9 9m
The heavily gardened slab left again.
Pull onto the undercut slab using crumbly jugs. Follow a crumbly flake to crumbly big holds and a lower-off. Crumbly.

Marilyn 5.9 8m
The short inset slab 10m left again.
Climb the slab past a break to a lower-off.

Matsumushisou - Pincushion Flower 5.11a 7m
Serious barrel-scraping up the steep choss left again. 7m might be generous.
Climb the leaning slim wall with three jugs and two bolts to a lower-off.

Tokisou - Ibis Orchid 5.10c 12m
Nope, they still haven't reached the bottom.
The grotty corner just left of Matsumushisou is seriously unrewarding. I only climbed it so that you don't have to.

Sagisou - Fringed Orchid 5.11c 8m
The longer arete to the left. Slightly more solid, but...
Climb the slab to the arete. One steep move leads to jugs and a lower-off. Apparently, you're not allowed to step onto the ledge on the left. Possibly because it will fall down if you do.

If you (a) climbed and (b) enjoyed the last few routes, head left and scramble up round the other side of the ridge to meet Back Streamside Area. Otherwise...

Top Left

The next routes start from the heavily gardened terrace gained by a precarious step up from the top of the debris pile. The whole of the terrace should be treated with caution as a lot of the trees holding it together were cut down by the excavators. Described from left to right.

Ikkyuu Soujishi e no Michi - How to be a Grade One Route Cleaner 5.10a* 15m
Makes you wonder. The left edge of the upper tier.
Step off the left edge of the terrace (onto the rock!) Follow a crumbling groove left of the bolts till it is possible to step right onto the slab and head diagonally right to a lower-off.

Reppuu - Storm Winds 5.12c* 13m
The next line in.
Follow the bolts to the same lower-off - very technical and devious.

Hototogisu - Lesser Cuckoo 5.12b* 13m
The next line in.
Climb direct to the same lower-off. Difficult and sustained after the third bolt.

Miyako Wasure - Japanese Aster 5.12a** 17m
Another direct line to the right.
Climb direct to a lower-off. Reachy and sustained after the second bolt. The first ascent description said something about not using an obvious hold on the right. What's all that about?

Love or Nothin' 5.10a** 18m
Another direct line right again. The most climbed route hereabouts.
Climb direct between twin not-quite-cracks to a lower-off. Steep and quite satisfying.

Uguisu Kagura - Lonicera Ramosissima 5.12a* 16m
Another direct line right again, also up a face between vague twin cracks.
Climb direct between the vague cracks to a lower-off. According to the first ascent description, you're not allowed to touch either crack.

Pit Touch 5.10c* 13m
The next line to the right.
Start below and left of a flake/overlap. Climb up to the overlap on good holds. Pull over and cross some choss to a thin face (crux). Continue up and left to a lower-off. At this grade, I think you're not supposed to use the crack on the left.

Hiyodori Jougo - Some Grotty Little Flower 5.11a* 14m
Solanum lyratum, it says here. The next line to the right.
Start a couple of metres left of the arete. Climb direct to the right edge of the overlap of Pit Touch. Pull right to the arete and finish up Audrey. Crux at the bottom.

Audrey 5.10b* 14m
The right arete of the main face.
Make a tricky pull into a groove in the arete. Continue easily over blocky ground, then pull left onto a short crunchy slab. A scary move up this leads to a lower-off.

Ingrid 5.10c* 13m
The protruding undercut rib to the right.
Climb the narrow rib to a ledge. Use a good crack to pull up the bulging face above to a lower-off.

Marlene 5.10b 13m
The parallel line to the right. A dangerous route.
Start in a recess. Pull up to easy ground then pull over a bulge using a flake on the left and/or tottering crack on the right to a lower-off. Take great care not to knock anything down.

Mamako no Shirinugui - Polygonum Senticosum 5.9 7m
The grotty short slab. Another poor route.
Climb the slab direct then rightwards to a blue chain below a dead tree stump. Lower off. Undergraded at 5.8 in the Japanese topo.

The line to the right is not claimed yet. From here, a fixed rope zigzags up to a small bay below a brown face. Be very careful if you use this rope. The bottom section looks OK (i.e. securely anchored), but the top section is a joke. People who leave this sort of gear in place should be neutered.

Top Centre

These routes start from the gardened ledge up and right of Mamako no Shirinugui. The rock itself is good apart from Grace. Described from left to right.

Grace 5.10c 14m
A poor route up the face left of the grotty corner in the arete.
Start at a yellow chain below an attractive crack. Step left round the arete onto grot and move up and left to a bulge guarding a clean slab. Pass the bulge on its left, make a thin pull up the face then swing right and mantel to the lower-off of Let Me See. It says here "If you stick to the line of the bolts, it's 11b."

Let Me See 5.11a*** 14m
The slab and obvious crack. A very good route.
Start at the yellow chain and climb direct with a stiff move to gain the obvious crack. The crack proves to be harder than it looks. Continue to a lower-off. Worth an extra star if the approach is ever sorted out.

Tori no Endou - Bush Vetch 5.12a** 18m
Another good route!
Climb the slabby face direct. Very sustained till the third clip.

Suzume no Endou - Hairy Tare 5.11b* 16m
Not bad, either.
Start up the wide crack at the back of the bay. Layback the crack to a tricky final face. Continue to a lower-off.

Sen no Kaze ni Natte - I am a Thousand Winds that Blow 5.10d* 18m
Another decent route, but the bottom slab is already dirty.
Climb diagonally left across the little slab at the back of the bay to a ledge. Finish quickly up the steep arete above. Lower off.

Back Streamside Area

Arf! You know, the Japanese have this handy habit of abbreviating phrases by cherrypicking syllables of the component words to make a new word - hence Pocket Monsters becomes Pokemon. Now don't let me stop you abbreviating this place to "Backside". Seriously a worthy contender for the Worst Crag at Og award.
As with its partner in crime, Riverbank Area, this place does not merit a full description - it really is crap.
But don't let me put you off! Off you go and find out for yourselves.

Some notes:

Union is Strength 5.10c/d
Seeing is Believing 5.11c
Renjou no Tama - The Jewel in the Crown 5.12c
Garyou Tensei - The Finishing Touch 5.13a
Okame Hachimoku - Can't See the Forest for the Trees 5.12a
Rinki Ouhen - Off the Cuff 5.10a
Tettou Tetsubi - To the Letter 5.11a
Bijin Hakumei - Beauty and Luck Seldom Mix 5.10c
Taki Bouyou - Who Hesitates is Lost 5.11a
Toki wa Kane Nari - Time is Money 5.10c
Bisei no Shin - Wait in Vain 5.12a