This is my name for the series of crags on the east side of the main stream through the valley, bounded to the south by the huge scree gully containing Mara Iwa.

The photo below shows the Family rocks seen from high on the opposite side of the valley. Roll your mouse over it to see crag names. Click a name to jump to the crag description.

The Family Rocks

Ani Iwa - Big Brother Rock

This is the low white slab and golden buttresses directly across the river from the lodge. Close (10 minutes) to the campsite and with easy access, this is an excellent and popular venue.

From the lodge, drop down to Nishimatasawa (the main stream) and look for cairns marking a crossing. Note that the crossing points can change because the boulders in the stream move. Sometimes a cairn may get left behind long after the crossing has gone.
Cross the river wherever possible and follow the path a short way into the woods. Where it steepens, drop down left for the lower slab, or follow the path up and right for the upper walls.

The Lower Slab

The Central Walls

This is the the continuation of the crag up and right from The Creator. Some routes were climbed on the crumbly face just up and right of The Creator, but these have since been debolted.

Follow the path up and right from the Lower Tier, detouring left at various intervals for the routes.

The East Face

This is the steep "back" face of Ani Iwa.

Follow the main path round the back of Natsuko no Nattsu. Saikou Flake is obvious on the left.

The North Face

Not as impressive as the name suggests.

Follow the main path round the back of Ani Iwa and up to a col. Go over the col and drop down and follow a path left, so you're in effect spiralling round Ani Iwa. The routes appear on the left before the path doglegs left and plants you on the terrace.

From the Terrace

The terrace overlooking the lodge has some very good routes.

Continue spiralling round Ani Iwa from the North Face. Rope up as required.

Obasan Iwa - Auntie Rock

This is the two-tiered face, tucked away behind and slightly left of Ani Iwa. The top tier is conspicuously triangular. Note that a lot of trees have been cut down on the terrace, making it more open but potentially more unstable. The heavily-gardened back face of Obasan Iwa (Tonari no Obasan) has returned to its default filthy state.

From the col behind Ani Iwa follow a vague path down then left (facing in) for thirty metres. For the Upper Tier, cut up a short easy corner to a terrace between the Upper and Lower Tiers. For the Lower Tier, follow the path down (it passes under the routes). For Tonari no Obasan, follow the path down past the Lower Tier then cut straight up the gully on the left of the crag.
It is also possible to slog up the gully left of Ani Iwa, as if approaching Tomodachi Iwa, then break out right.

The Lower Tier

The Upper Tier

Tonari no Obasan - The Woman Nextdoor

This is the ugly, gloomy, dirty back face of Obasan Iwa. Go somewhere else.

Tomodachi Iwa - Friend Rock

This is the clump of jumbled blocks and slabs below Saikoro Iwa. The area is relatively new (1999), the rock is relatively crap, yet the routes were, for a short time, at least, perversely popular. A lot more routes were climbed in this area in 2001 under the area name Baby Pinnacles, but really they just represent a (rather short) extension of Tomodachi Iwa. These are mostly short, steep faces and definite fillers and are described in relation to Tomodachi Iwa.
Even more routes were added to Baby Pinnacles around 2015, but have yet to be reported. I've only included the ones I've done.

From the col behind Ani Iwa follow a vague path left (facing in) for 70m (under Obasan Iwa). The original path then cuts up to Saikoro Iwa. Traverse left from the bottom of Obasan Iwa without losing height to a prominent face (with Aa, Shoushimin) and continue into the next gully. Climb this gully for 50m to an amphitheatre of craglets.
Alternatively, follow the main stream down past Ani Iwa, cross it at a cairn on the right bank and follow a new path, badly marked with yellow tape, up the gully to the rocks. Tomodachi Iwa is the biggest of these and first on the left.

Routes are described from left to right in a perverse yet clockwise kind of way, starting with Tomodachi Iwa. On all these routes, be prepared to back up or replace the tat on the anchors.

Saikoro Iwa - The Dice

The prominent, perched cube of rock poking from the trees at the left end of the hillside opposite the lodge.

From the col behind Ani Iwa follow a vague path left (facing in) for 70m (under Obasan Iwa), then cut up the gully (the rocks on your left are Baby Pinnacles), and follow a vague path to the base of the pinnacle. There is white tape marking the path, but it's hard to see. If you get it right first time, it should take about 25 minutes from the campsite.
Alternatively, follow the main stream down past Ani Iwa, cross it at a cairn on the right bank and follow a new path, badly marked with yellow tape, up the gully to the rocks.

Okosama Iwa - Child Rock

The tiny crag just (20m) north and down of Saikoro Iwa. Only one route to date.

Otouto Iwa - Little Brother Rock

The slender tapering buttress to the right of Ani Iwa. Generally good rock, but the lines are rather broken.

Wander down to the river from the lodge and look for a cairn marking a crossing point. Cross the river (2016, the closest crossing to the lodge leaves you just to the right of the Lower Section). The broad slab that starts Kentaurus Densetsu and is capped by hangs is an obvious feature to start with. The first two routes start on the short steep wall to the left.

The Lower Section

The Upper Section

Mamako Iwa - Mother and Child Rock

This is the amazing slab of rock thrown into the dirt behind Otouto Iwa and seemingly propped up by a glorious tree. It gives a couple of pleasant slab routes on one face and thug heaven on the other.

Follow the path round the back of Otouto Iwa. You can cut across to this point from the top of Ani Iwa and Haha Iwa.

Chichi Iwa - Father Rock

The twin slabs, the left one squat and light, the right one slender and dark, high on the hill just across the river from the lodge offer excellent slab-climbing, but can be top-rope hell.

From the lodge, drop down to Nishimatasawa (the main stream) and look for cairns marking a crossing. Note that the crossing points can change because the boulders in the stream move. Sometimes a cairn may get left behind long after the crossing has gone.
Assuming that you arrive at Otouto Iwa, skirt it on its right and continue round its back to Mamako Iwa. You can also reach this point by heading up and right from Ani Iwa. The path continues straight up the hill to the foot of the lefthand slab. Another alternative is to follow a path up and right of Haha Iwa. This eventually heads back left to the foot of the righthand slab.

Haha Iwa - Mother Rock

This is the slab in the woods to the right of Otouto Iwa. Parts of it are being reclaimed by Mother Nature, but nevertheless it has a handful of decent low-grade slab routes.

Cross the river as for Ani Iwa. Where the path climbs up to the upper crag, follow a less well defined path horizontally right past Otouto Iwa. When this path starts going uphill towards Mamako Iwa, break out right for 50m to a big dirty slab. The small steep face down and right is Mekake Iwa.

Mekake Iwa - Mistress Rock

This is the small steep face of less than perfect rock just below and right of Haha Iwa. It is almost never climbed on. Only one really decent route.

Either drop down from Haha Iwa or, from the righthand approach path to Chichi Iwa, follow a vague path that breaks out left after 75m. The routes are described from left to right.

Godzilla no Bessou - Godzilla's Holiday Home

Well hidden in the trees out to the right of Haha Iwa is a large crumbly slab straddling an impressive cave. The only route climbs the solid lower right slab.

Cross the river as for Ani Iwa. Follow the path upstream past Otouto Iwa and Haha Iwa to just before a (usually dry) stream comes down from the left. Follow a cairn-marked path up for about 100m (this heads up to the right end of Chichi Iwa via the right end of Mekake Iwa and Haha Iwa). When level with the belay ledge at the top of Eightman Pitch 1, follow a faint path out right over a flat boulder to a col. The crumbly left slab is now directly above you. The cave is set well back and easy to miss.

Rum Doodle

A large, mostly broken slab high on the ridge above and right of Chichi Iwa.

Cross the river as for Ani Iwa. Follow the path upstream past Otouto Iwa and Haha Iwa to just before a (usually dry) stream comes down from the left. Follow the cairn-marked path up for about 100m and break off right as for Gojira no Bessou. Continue right past this and cross a scree slope. Zig-zag up the wooded slope to the big slab capped by a headwall with a diagonal crack.

Laputa no Tou - Laputa Tower

This is the squat, slabby tower high and right of Haha Iwa. A good place to escape the crowds. I was up there in summer 2014, and found some extra unreported routes on neighbouring rocks. They are generally on poor, vegetated rock and not worth it, but don't let that stop you. (It didn't stop me.)

Cross the river as for Ani Iwa. Follow the path upstream past Otouto Iwa to where a (usually dry) stream comes down from the left. Follow this stream awkwardly up for about 200m till it splits. There is a prominent square rock placed on top of a trig point-shaped block marking the branch left. Break out left and follow a faint, unmarked path for 70m until, hopefully, you see the bolts of Utsurundesu on the crag below the tower. You can avoid the bottom part of the stream by following the cairn-marked path just left of the stream then breaking out right to the stream (this path eventually heads up to the right end of Chichi Iwa via the right end of Mekake Iwa and Haha Iwa).

Riverside

This is the long, low curtain of rock across the river before you get to the chain. The lower tier is slabby, the upper iter is steep.

Follow the Kimpu-san highway past the toilets in the lower campsite. Cut down to the river on a drivable track, then head upstream past a dam and pool before crossing the river at cairns. (This is the last crossing to get flooded after rain). Enter the jungle and follow a well marked path to the crag. You can also get here by following the Kimpu-san highway to the chain across the road. Turn left, cross the river above the dam and follow a path downstream a short way then up to the crag. The path up and right of the crag leads to Kakushi Ko Iwa, then Imouto Iwa.

The Upper Tier

Kakushiko Iwa - Love Child Rock

This is the small, steep face tucked away on the left of the path up to Imouto Iwa from Riverside. Sandbagged, scruffy and sharp, and not very popular.

Follow the path right and then up from Riverside. When things start getting steep, look for the crag tucked away on the left. Easier said than done.
The routes are described from left to right.

Fueromon no Oo Iwa - Pheromone Big Rock

Never been there, never seen it.

Don't know where it is either, but it must be somewhere up and right of Kakushiko Iwa.

Tamago Iwa - The Egg

This is the blob of rock at the top of the ridge. More of a larval Half Dome, really.

Approach up the ridge started by Kakushiko Iwa, or follow a faint path into the brush from the main path to Imouto Iwa.

Imouto Iwa - Little Sister Rock

This is the steep slab that forms a backdrop to Mara Iwa.

Follow the Kimpu-san highway to the chain across the road. Turn left, cross the river above the dam and follow a path up the big dry stream. After a short while the path cuts left across the stream and disappears into the jungle at a cairn. Follow this path to the foot of Mara Iwa and continue left under the main slab then up to the foot of a cracked wall (from which Casablanca starts). The routes are described from right to left. You can also get here by following a path up and right from Riverside. It should take 20~25 minutes from the campsite.

The first two routes climb the underside of the right edge of the Casablanca face. Belay on a neat rock podium with a convenient tree right of the gully.

The next four routes are gained by climbing up and around three trees in the gully to the left of Orion. After 5 or 6 metres, step right under a big dying cedar (I think - I'm not good at trees), then go up to a cramped terrace wedged between two faces, noting the potential of the whole caboodle for collapse. If you have any doubts, rope up!

The next five routes climb the rock left of the trees that get you up to Saika etc. Apart from Yellow Crash, they haven't been climbed in donkeys' years and should be treated with suspicion.

The next three routes start up a chimney about 30m left of Yellow Crash. There are also some unclaimed bolt lines around here.
Follow a faint path into the bush under Yellow Crash, keeping as close to the base of the rocks as possible. Mind your step, too - this is toilet country.

Mara Iwa - Cock Rock

This is the impressive pinnacle to the right of Imouto Iwa.

Follow the Kimpu-san highway to the chain across the road. Turn left, cross the river above the dam and follow a path up the big dry stream. After a short while the path cuts left across the stream and disappears into the jungle at a cairn. This path leads to the foot of Mara Iwa. The routes are described from right to left, starting at the bottom and right of the main rock. You can also get to Mara Iwa by following a path up and right from Riverside to Imouto Iwa.
In late 2010, two crazy French dudes ran a highline from the top of Mara Iwa to the top of Tatsu no Kotarou on Imouto Iwa. Have a look!

The next four routes exist on the roof under Yane no Ue no Tajan. I haven't done them and, barring momentous developments in the world of bionics, never will. There are also bolts in the roof behind Keyhead - I think some of these belong to a route called Cave Keyhead, but that's all I don't know about them.

Mara Iwa - Back Face

Below Mara Iwa

A route is recorded on a tiny crag visible on the left of the dry gully running up to Mara Iwa.

Take the righthand approach for Mara Iwa (as for Hop, Step, Jump). Keep your eyes peeled after leaving the stream bed. The crag is about 50 metres up.

The next routes are tucked into the woods below and right of Mara Iwa.

They are best approached by first going to the bottom slab of Mara Iwa, then dropping down the scree gully about 20m and following a faint path east. You immediately pass under a grotty green rock with two unreported bolt lines. Up the slope right of this (as you look at it) is the narrow bolted slab of Moss Side Story. Further right of this is a big low-angled slab. Heading up the gully right of this takes you to the slab of Undercooked, which finishes at the start of Overheat. Hop, Step, Jump is just to the right of this gully.
Alternatively, when you cross the dry stream on the main path to Mara Iwa, turn right and follow the stream bed to dam number 8. Step back and get a fix on the long slabby rib of Hop, Step, Jump, then make your own path up to it.

Above Mara Iwa

There are some good routes on the hillside up and right of Mara Iwa. Two of them are gems.

From the boulders at the back of Mara Iwa, follow a path up the hillside. (This leads to Sotsugyou Kinen in 30 metres.) Just a few metres up from the boulders a faint path leads right to a short steep face. This is the far left end of the split block containing Overheat (you can also get here by scrambling right and up of Yane no Ue no Tajan). This is toilet country, by the way, so mind your step. The following 2 routes are unreported:

For Overheat, follow a path round the back and then down the far side of this boulder to a big tree with a fixed rope leading onto the ledge with the horizontal tree of at the base of the route.

For the next routes, follow a path up the hillside from the boulders at the back of Mara Iwa. 50 metres up is a steep whitish slab with angular features.

Ane Iwa - Big Sister Rock

Further up and right is a series of biggish, broken crags. These were developed between 2000 and 2004 and offer strong evidence to support the Harrison Theory Of Ogawayama ("Routes within 30 mins of the campsite climbed since 1995 are hard, crap, or both"). Treat with caution.

From the boulders at the back of Mara Iwa, follow the path up the hillside to Sotsugyou Kinen. Follow an indistinct path right past Nyuugaku Shiken and drop down into a bay containing, for the time-being, at least, Shita no Ane Iwa. Distinguishing features include the golden headwall of Ojos Asi up above and the fallen blocks of Gurasshio down below (soon to be joined by the golden headwall of Ojos Asi).

Shita no Ane Iwa - Lower Big Sister Rock

Another contender for the title of Worst Crag at Ogawayama.

Ue no Ane Iwa - Upper Big Sister Rock

From Usagi to Odoru Onna, drop down then follow a slim path diagonally right across the slope for about 40 metres to a slightly slabbier crag of slightly better rock. Some of the bolting and route-finding on this crag beggars belief.

Ane Iwa Honpou - Big Sister Spire

From the campsite, this appears to be situated behind and to the left of Imouto Iwa, but for the moment access is described from Mara Iwa. The top offers superb views.

From the left end of Ue no Ane Iwa, follow a path left up the slope to the col. The cracked tower in front of you is, unfortunately, the crag. Be careful, because there are some big drops round here.
You can get to the top of the spire very easily by pulling through trees up onto the ridge right of Bibou no Kamisama, then scrambling carefully back right. This is recorded as a route called Sanpo ni Ikou (Let's Go for a Walk).

Ane Iwa North

This area gets a little sunshine in the morning and that's about it.

Follow the Kimpusan Highway to a prominent left turn leading down to the big stream at a small dam (with sluice) and very inviting pool. Head downstream for 30m (past the end of the stacked boulders) and cross the stream wherever possible about 20m before the dam made of iron girders. Also look for a stream on the opposite bank. Follow a path up the hillside alongside this stream. Apart from the start, this is well marked with cairns and white tape. After about 200m, the path heads right and leaves the stream and soon becomes an almost unbroken chain of fixed ropes. Follow these to a small bay under the impressive slab that is Kojuuto Slab.

Kojuuto Slab - Brother-in-Law Slab

The huge, diamond-shaped slab located under the righthand, vegetated spire as seen from the car park.
Actually, it could be Sister-in-Law Slab, depending on the kanji.

Kojuuto Slab Left

The steep face just left of Kojuuto Slab.

The crack right again is an aid route. Didn't think we still did them.

Gaichi Iwa

The steep, slanting face just down left of Kojuuto Slab Left.

Akai Slab - Red Slab

Not obvious from the campsite, this large slanting slab sits on the left shoulder of Kojuuto Slab. The routes on the front (right) are open and enjoyable. The routes on the left have a dank, steep start and the further left you go, the worse the rock.

Head up the short steep gully capped by a chockstone in between Kojuuto Left and Gaichi Iwa. Follow a hacked path up and right to the right edge of the slab.
Routes described as approached, from right to left.

Ane Iwa Honpou, Gantou Hokumen, Pinnacle

This is a bunch of routes on generally poor rock in a dank bay directly beneath the main pinnacle face. You're inspired already, aren't you.

From Hageitou, follow an indistinct path left to a gully (the continuation of the stream you started out in). Just below a slim white pillar (the start of Koki no Yorokobi) cross the gully and scramble down fixed ropes into a small overgrown bay. Routes are described from right to left.

Ane Iwa Honpou, Gantou Hokumen, Gully Walls

This area is basically the short steep slab that starts from a narrow terrace leading left from the approach gully, at the point where the gully becomes no longer walkable. These routes finish at the same level, but round to the left, as the routes at Ane Iwa Honpou start.

From Hageitou on Akai Slab, follow the path into the bush and across into the gully, as for Ane Iwa Honpou, Gantou Hokumen, Pinnacle, but continue straight up the gully. The short tower from which Koki no Yorokobi starts is immediately visible on the left. For other routes, continue up the gully for 20m to a narrow terrace below a steep slab on the left. After Koki no Yorokobi, the routes are described from right to left.

Ane Iwa Honpou, Gantou Hokumen, Kabu

This is confusingly named. It's basically a group of routes directly below the north side of the summit and to the left of Koki no Yorokobi. I haven't done them, and I'm not really sure about the approach, so be careful if you head out there. Parasite and Hide Your Heart start round to the left of the belay at the top of pitch 2 of Koki no Yorokobi.

Shikaku Iwa - The Square

The crag that won first prize in the Not Being Square-shaped Contest.

Coming from Mara Iwa, follow the path round the back of Overheat, but continue across towards the big gully. Where this path hits the gully, head up till the crag is visible on the right. You can also get to the gully by following an incomplete path along the line of crags up and right from Sotsugyou Shiken. A 15-minute slog up the gully from below Mara Iwa is also possible (take the left fork when presented with the choice).

Limelight Wall

This is a lovely-looking face hidden away in a superb situation above and behind Mara Iwa. Unfortunately, the rock is crumbly and there is only one route to date.

According to old guides, a path breaks off left and leads directly to this face from the path from Overheat to the big gully. You're welcome to try. Otherwise, slog up the gully in 15 minutes from Shikaku Iwa. The crag is the attractive face at the head of this gully.