Rock Climbing Routes at Ryuusou Rohan
Aspect and Location
Like Sawaguchisawa, the rocks are located on the west side of Mount Ryuusou, overlooking Abe River, about 15km to the northwest of Shizuoka city centre. They are basically further up and left on the hillside than the Sawaguchisawa rocks.
These rocks are also located in densely wooded hillside, but, because a forest road is being made from Tawaramine to Kujira Ike, they are quite easily accessible (provided that there is no construction work going on).
The best time of year for climbing here is between November and May, with February, March and April being the best months.
The rock is friable in places, but the first ascensionists have generally ignored the worst of it.
Because the rocks are high on the hillside, they catch the afternoon sun better than Sawaguchisawa but thick tree cover affects some areas.
When the forest road is complete, you will be able to drive up from Kujira ga Ike. Until then:
- From Shizuoka, follow Route 27 (Abe Kaidou) north through Ushizuma towards Umegashima.
- Go through Shizuhata Kita tunnel and past a left turn that takes you to a bridge crossing Abe River on your left.
- 100m after this is a small crossroads with a factory (Nihon Panel Kougyou) on the right. (Where you turn right for Sawaguchisawa).
- Keep going for 2km and turn right at Tawarazawa.
- Go round a bend, cross a small bridge and turn immediately right for Tawaramine.
- Follow the winding road up through tea fields and conifer plantations to Tawaramine.
- Drive through the village past a staggered crossroads to a decrepit temple called Suigetsuin.
- Turn right on the bend by the temple, then turn right again in about 100m. Follow this road to about this point. The rocks are in the woods above the road.
This is the slim tower just (20m) above the forest road.
⦾ Golden Hall Crack 12m 5.9
⦿ This climbs the obvious bottomless handcrack in the tower. Short but very satisfying. Take a rack.
⦿ Start left of the line of the crack. Pull up to a bomber wire, step up and right to a bolt, make the crux stiff pull to the crack, then jam satisfyingly to the top. Ab off the tree or walk off to either side.
The next route is on the slabby right face of the leftmost crag of Emyn Nuil. This is located about 200m up and slightly left of Meduseld.
⦾ Broken Fellowship 17m 5.10b
⦿ This climbs the slabby right face of the tower. 6 bolts.
⦿ Join the bolts by a line that drifts up, right, then back left to the final crux arete. Make your own lower-off on a convenient tree and see if you can work out how that ruined shrine got there.
|December 26th, 2021
||Golden Hall Crack
|December 31st, 2021